My 5-year old daughter and I recently returned from a 6-week trip through Asia.  Our final stay in Japan was a trip to the Island of Okinawa.  Okinawa is the southernmost part of Japan, comprised of a few dozen small islands, stretching about a thousand kilometers all the way to Taiwan.  The Okinawa Region consists of three major island groups – the Okinawa Islands, the Miyako Islands and the Yaeyama Islands.

My husband was stationed in Okinawa for a couple of years and thought that we would enjoy a visit to the main island.  We were fortunate that some friends just recently moved there so we had a place to stay and people to show us the Okinawa island life.  You never know where your friends might be moving and keeping in touch on Facebook is a great way to keep track.

We flew from Tokyo (NAR) to Okinawa Naha Airport (OKA) on Jet Star, a low cost airline.  There are a couple of them including Vanilla and Peach but be aware that some of those airlines actually depart from another part of the airport.  I didn’t like Tokyo Airport, it was a bit difficult to navigate and you had to take a bus to another terminal or walk through long walkways.

The flight to Okinawa took about 3 hours – more than I imagined.  Jet Star was just fine.  We paid ¥40900 (about $350 RT for two of us) which also included my payment for two 35k bags.  It is cheaper if you pay in advance for bags and the ticket in general (we bought tickets last minute).  Your carry on can’t be more than 7 pounds – they combined our two and we had no problem.  Legroom is very small but the flight attendants were nice and very attentive.  Don’t expect any free food or drink  – so remember to grab something in the airport. I bought a hot tea for ¥250, not bad.

Naha Airport is very small and manageable. Naha is the capital and largest city in Okinawa.  Our friends live about an hour north at one of the US bases and there was a bit of rush hour traffic. It was really easy for me to have access to the base because I have a retired military spouse ID.  There are 17 US Military Bases on Okinawa.

We were so used to being cold in Japan but in Okinawa it was in the 60’s (in February)! They say that’s winter weather – in summer it is unbearably hot and humid. The best time to visit Okinawa is Spring and Fall.

Our hosts did a fantastic job of organizing lots of activities on the island.  On Friday we drove an hour north to Nago, the second largest city on the island. You can take the expressway (as we did) or the back roads.  We stopped for a photo op at the south end of Nago, there is a really nice vista next to the Lawson and Blue Seal.

Ocean Park is a beautiful area with an amazing aboretum including animal topiaries and beautiful flowers everywhere.  If that’s not enough there is also a planetarium, an aquarium, an Okinawan Village and Cultural Center.

Our favorite attraction was the Okinawa Aquarium and Dolphin Show.  Children under 6 are free, adults are ¥1850, high schoolers pay ¥1250, elementary and junior high students pay ¥610 and there are also free admission days throughout the year.  It’s touted as one of the best aquariums in the world – it is definitely worth the visit.  The dolphin show is located just outside along the shoreline. It was a fantastic show and even featured a pilot whale. That was the best part of the day!

Some things to note: they had free electric wheelchairs for use that can be taken throughout the vast grounds.  Also, there is a cafe where you sit and eat in front of a massive aquarium.  If you want to be in the front row, however, you have to reserve a table.  The food is ok – you eat there for the scenery.  Oh and if you get hot after your day at the aquarium, head down to Emerald Beach.  I would recommend planning a very long day at Ocean Park, there is so much for all ages.  We got stuck in rush hour leaving – stay off the roads between 4-7 on Friday and Saturday.

Our friends took us to the local mall, the Aeon Okinawa Rycom.  On a hot day in Okinawa it’s a great place to be.  It has a huge food court with lots of different cuisines at very reasonable prices.  We had some local Okinawan food, then on the way out we had a gelato – fantastic. Try the local favorite beni-imo (local purple sweet potato). The mall also a rather large fish tank (mini aquarium), inside near the main entrance.

Our hosts arranged for a day at the Valley of Gangala and Okinawa World. The tour guide gave us individual bottles of iced jasmine tea with straps for our tour (a nice touch). For the first part our guide took us through the Valley of Gangala for a walk through the subtropical forest. Hundreds of thousands of years ago the valley was a limestone cave.  There’s a little cafe and you can rent the whole area for cave weddings, parties, concerts, etc.

The Valley of Gangala is very important for historical reasons.  They found the oldest remains in Japan here (now called Minotagawa) – who was about 20,000 years old.  It represents the very beginning of people living in the Okinawa area. After the remains were found they did excavations to figure where he might have lived. They looked in this cave and the oldest remains in Asia were found here.

There is some walking involved on the tour but less than a kilometer and only a few steps. Be sure to wear good walking shoes as the rocks and wood can be slippery. I wasn’t sure what to expect but my daughter and I both enjoyed the tour. It’s always nice to be out in nature.

After that we were on our own to tour Okinawa World. It’s a cultural center that’s a little bit tourist trap but also a great place to learn about the Okinawa way of life. In the Habu Museum Park you can learn all about some of the creatures found on the island. The Habu snake is a deadly snake that is famous around Okinawa. They have a 20-minute Habu show that is pretty educational and entertaining. We even got our photo taken for free with a large boa constrictor. 😳

We had a bite to eat at the cafe next door – it wasn’t bad – average size pizza for ¥1000. After a walk through the village we opted to do a native art called Bingata. It’s an ancient form of art incorporating the cultures brought in by China and Southeast Asia – with the tropical nature of Okinawa.

There are two primary methods in bingata-making: “Katazome” and “Tsutsugaki”. We used the katazome method and created our own pieces. Ellie made a small bag and I made a tea towel. It’s a very relaxing but lengthy process. We painted our pieces but then took them home protected by newspaper and plastic bags, you have to finish the drying and final part at home.

Our final day we spent at the Southeast Botanical Gardens. I was worried that my daughter would find it boring, but it was quite the opposite.  There is a nice little tram that will take you through the park for a couple of dollars.  It moves quite slowly so you can even snap some photos and plan where you want to spend time.  The gardens are not too large but it is quite hilly for a park.

Our favorite spots were the pond where you could feed the fish and a small “zoo” area.  They had a nice petting area where you can get in the caged area with rabbits, guinea pigs and ducks.  The coolest part was when we got in the cage with monkeys and a capybara.  You can buy animal food and feed them by hand – lots of fun!   We were actually in the gardens on the last day of the light festival.  Later that night my hosts brought my daughter back that night to see it all lit up, she said it was very cool.

Okinawa is very different from the rest of mainland Japan. It was annexed by Japan in the late 1800’s but it is more historically and culturally related to China and other Southeast Asian counties.  This combination creates a unique destination that should be on your bucket list.

 

 

My 5-year old daughter and I recently took a 3-week trip through Japan.  We had a lot of experience using the trains in Japan during our travels. Here is some good information we learned about Japanese trains.

Everyone takes the trains in Japan.  From the family going to the zoo – to the daily commuter – Japanese trains are very safe and punctual.  It is a massive network of routes and much more complicated than NYC.  You might have to take 3 different trains, as we did, to get to the other side of a big city like Tokyo.

Here are some travel tips for Japanese trains:

1.  Tokyo is the largest city in the world by area – remember that at peak travel times. Rush hour can be very very crazy especially in the direction of Tokyo.  There are even times when some push others like sardines into train cars.
2. You can eat on local trains but the Japanese don’t.
3. Don’t expect young people or anyone to give up their seat for those who need it (as they should).
4. On the Shinkansen they do have someone walking up and down selling everything from hot rice bowls to ice cream and coffee, cash only. They may have limited selection so grab something in the station if possible.
5. A few train stations did not have elevators or escalators so be prepared to ask for help if you need – I did find a few gentlemen.
   

   A Toilet on the Shinkansen

   

   Sink on Shinkansen has Everything

6. Generally there are nice bathrooms on trains – especially on the Shinkansen. On all other trains don’t expect soap or dryers/towels. Bring hand sanitizer!
7. The Shinkansen and a few other trains have electrical outlets – bring a charger and splitter if have more than one device.
   

   Ellie Boarding the Shinkansen

8. Buy a Japan Rail (JR) Pass if you plan to travel between multiple cities or plan to take several trains.  The Shinkansen trains are somewhat costly and a rail pass will cover those as well.
9. Until recently you had to buy the JR Pass outside of Japan.  They just changed the rule so that it will be cheaper to buy it outside but you can still buy it in Japan.  It is, however, only open to non-residents of Japan.
10. You may have a JR Pass but you might also need a reservation, particularly during peak times. Also, you might have to pay a supplemental fee depending on the demand.
11. 

    Sapporo Train Station

    Kids under 6 travel FREE on trains in Japan – but you may have to pay a reservation fee if it is a very popular time.  They can, however, always sit on your lap for free.

12. The JR Pass does not work on all trains – be sure you know whether the train is covered!
13. 

    Information Sent with JR Pass

    If you order the JR Pass before departure they will send you a paper that you will exchange for the actual pass.  This must be done at one of the main train stations as I found out the hard way.  They also sent some handy guides and timetables.

14. You can activate your JR Pass before the date you want to start using it, but once you pick dates – they can’t be changed.
15. The JR Pass is for consecutive days of travel, unlike the Eurail Pass which is for actual days of travel.
    

    Coastline Views on Train from Sapporo

16. Trains offer some beautiful sightseeing of the Japanese countryside.
17. Sometimes trains have screens announcing the stops and usually verbally announce in English but one or two trains didn’t.  Also pay close attention as some stations sound alike – you will end up on other side of city.

I truly enjoy riding trains – particularly in a country like Japan where they’re so easy and reasonable to use, the views are amazing and traveling becomes more relaxing and memorable.

I recently spent three weeks traveling throughout Japan with my 5-year old.  Here are some of my important travel tips for Japan:

1.  Public bathrooms are usually nice but don’t often have paper towels or soap.  Be sure to always have some tissues, hand sanitizer, and/or wipes.
   

   Bathroom on Shinkansen

2. Public transportation is very good and prompt in Japan.  If you take the metro carry a copy of the metro map written in both English and Japanese, in case you need to ask for help from a stranger.  Trains are very good.  Read my full post on trains in Japan.
3. Japan is 13 hours ahead of US Eastern Standard Time (one day ahead).
4. Learn some basic Japanese words and phrases like “excuse me”, “thank you” – they go a long way and I didn’t find many people who spoke English.
5. Notify your bank before travel – even your ATM card issuing bank. I would also get some local cash before you go for the first day or so. With the craziness of travel, it’s one less thing to worry about in the airport.  You can order most major currencies from your bank or AAA.
6. Bring a little gift for someone who does something nice – the Japanese are quite formal.
7. If in Kyoto hire one of the Good Samaritan student guides.  They are a group of volunteers students who give free tours in exchange for practicing English.  You are expected to pay for any costs – entry fees or meals associated with your time together.
8. There are different ways to greet someone depending on the time of day – I found people to be very nice with a warm greeting in Japanese.
9. Always be more polite – it’s better to err on the side of piling it on.
10. You must visit an onsen – it’s a staple of Japanese culture. Be sure to get a wax or shave – there is no vanity!
    

    Monkeying Around in Onsen

    There are no bathing suits allowed and if you have tattoos you are not allowed. Kids are allowed, however, so just cover your tattoo with your kid.

11. Japanese remove their shoes at home and in places like onsens.  Always take your shoes off upon entering a Japanese home. Japanese wear different slippers just for bathroom and others just for the kitchen.
12. All the Japanese hotels in which I stayed provided kimono and slippers.
13. Japan has the same electrical outlets as the US, you do not need adapter.
14. Bring some dried fruit and nuts for train rides and long flights.  They did offer “Western” or “Asian” options for our meals inflight but my unpicky daughter didn’t like either.
15. For all trips – bring a medical kit. My daughter got pretty sick and I was able to give her some quick comfort with meds from home. FYI, they don’t give ibuprofen to kids in Japan. However, the pharmacist was very helpful in getting us new meds when we ran out of ours from home.
16. Be sure you have health insurance when traveling. My daughter and I both needed medical care in Japan.
    

    Japanese Hospital

    See my medical tips when traveling blog for more information.

17. Bring along these items – a bungy cord (good for adding a bag or two to zip through train stations); if you’re not great with chopsticks bring a couple of forks as I found some places didn’t have any; bring a couple of your favorite tea bags – hot water is everywhere; a sewing kit which we used a couple of times.
18. Download a currency conversion app for your smart phone, it helps you decide quickly if that souvenir is a good bargain.
19. The cities we visited were Tokyo, Sapporo, Otaru, Nagano, Kyoto and Okinawa.  Remember that in January-February it will be cold and snowy in much of Japan.  Okinawa was not very cold then but you will have to fly there.
20. Taxis are rather expensive in Japan and most drivers don’t speak English, have your hotel or home address printed in Japanese.
21. Tokyo is the largest city in the world by area, it took me an hour by train from “my house” in Tokyo to the center of Tokyo.
22. Build a few days into your trip to recover from the jet lag.  It took us almost a week to get back on our schedule from the 13-hour time difference.

Japan is a very beautiful, historical and interesting place.  Airfares from the DC area to Japan have been in the $500 R/T range lately (normally about $1000). You can also find reasonable accommodation if you know where to look.  You have no excuse…